Breakers that trip and will not reset, a panel cover that buzzes or feels warm, rust from a basement leak, or a Federal Pacific or Zinsco label on the door. We fix what can be fixed. When the panel itself is the problem, we do a load calculation before pricing a replacement, so the new panel and service are sized to how you actually use the house. If the upgrade changes your service size, we file the Seattle City Light application alongside the SDCI permit so one is not sitting idle waiting for the other. If you searched for electrical panel repair near me and got a price over the phone from someone who never saw your panel, that price is a guess.
Knob and tube, cloth wire and late-1960s aluminum circuits all show up in Seattle houses, mostly the pre-war ones. A rewire does not have to mean gutting the place. We go circuit by circuit, fish new cable through existing cavities wherever the framing allows, and plan the work so you can keep living there. It is permitted through SDCI and inspected in stages. If your insurer wants the old wiring out before renewal, send us their letter and we will scope the job to what they asked for.
Level 2 chargers for Tesla, Ford, Rivian, Hyundai and anything else on a J1772 or NACS plug, or a plain NEMA 14-50 outlet if that is what you prefer. We check whether your service can carry the charger before we sell you anything. On a 100 amp Seattle service the answer is often no, at least not without a load management device or an upgrade through City Light, and you should hear that at the estimate. Then we pull the SDCI permit, run the circuit, mount the unit and stay with it through inspection.
Rough-in through trim-out on custom homes, townhomes, detached ADUs, garages and shops. We read the plans, coordinate with your builder and the other trades, and set boxes where the drywall crew will not have to guess. When the project needs plan review under the Seattle Electrical Code, we submit it. When it needs new service from City Light, we start that application early, because City Light’s processing time can hold up the whole schedule.
A burning smell, a sparking outlet, scorch marks around a plug, a breaker that will not reset, or half the house dark while the neighbors still have lights. Call us at any hour. If your whole block is out, that is a City Light outage, so check their outage map first. If it is only your house, or only part of it, that is a job for us. We will give you an honest arrival time when you call.
Dead outlets, warm cover plates, scorch marks at the slots, or two-prong outlets with nothing to ground to. We replace what has failed, add outlets where you actually need them, and put GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, garages, crawlspaces and anywhere outdoors. One Google review describes us replacing every outdated kitchen and laundry outlet and tracking down a bathroom GFCI problem the homeowner had been living with.
Two-prong outlets are normal in Seattle houses built before the mid-1960s. Putting a three-prong outlet in that box without a ground does not make anything safer. The plug fits, and the house looks better wired to the next buyer than it really is. We run a real ground where we can reach one, use GFCI protection where we cannot, and label the outlets the way the code asks.
A switch that buzzes, gets warm, or only works when you hold it at a certain angle has a loose connection or the wrong load on it. We replace bad switches, wire three-way and four-way circuits for stairs and long hallways, and match dimmers to LED fixtures so the flicker stops. We also hardwire and interconnect smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. When a remodel or addition triggers that requirement, battery units stuck to the ceiling will not pass.
Recessed lights, under-cabinet strips, pendants, outdoor and landscape lighting, and simple fixture swaps, including the awkward spots like the ceiling over a stairwell. Layout matters more than the fixture. Put the cans in the wrong place and you get a shadow right where you chop vegetables. We plan it with you before anyone climbs a ladder, which counts for a lot in a city that gets dark at 4:30 in December.
A ceiling fan is not a light fixture. The box has to hold the weight plus the wobble, and most boxes we open in older Seattle houses were never rated for a fan. We install fan-rated boxes and bracing, wire the fan and light to switch separately, and mount fans on sloped and vaulted ceilings. We can also add a fan where there has never been a fixture.
A breaker trips for a reason. It might be a space heater and a microwave on one kitchen circuit, or it might be a short inside a wall. We find out which before we replace anything, then install the right size breaker and add AFCI or GFCI protection where the current code calls for it. Resetting the same breaker over and over without finding the cause is how a nuisance turns into a fire.
Heat pumps, hot tubs, saunas, tankless water heaters, induction ranges and shop equipment each need a circuit of their own. Seattle’s Clean Heat Program has moved a lot of homes off oil heat and onto heat pumps, and every one of those conversions needs a properly sized 240 volt circuit. We size the wire for the load and the length of the run, so you do not lose voltage on the way to a detached garage or a hot tub at the back of the yard.
Kitchens and bathrooms need far more circuits now than when most Seattle houses were built, and the code is specific about how many. Basement conversions and attached ADUs often need a subpanel. We work around finished surfaces, fish wire instead of opening walls where we can, and fit into your contractor’s schedule so nobody is standing around waiting on the electrician.
